Bright and elemental describes both the food and the decor. The stark, white-washed room is broken up with blocky primary colors, vibrant cobalt and classic fire-engine red, and the menu is a short-list of hot-item healthfoods and trendy ingredients: we've got kale and quinoa, wheatgrass and avocado, but Dimes is in no way puritanical. There's still pulled pork and indulgent cheeses, so you can take things either way. On the healthier side, we started off with The Big Salad (Elaine Benes would've been proud), a big bowl of fresh leaflets mounded with roasted shishitos and kernels of corn in a kicky charred lime vinaigrette. Not quite hearty enough for any entree, it was still to big for an individual appetizer but ideal to share between the two of us. There are also Small Plates, from which a sourdough Maitake Toast or Grilled Halloumi with Romesco probably
would be a much better choice than the Magical Vegetable Pot, but I was lured by the possibility of some bewitching prestidigitation.
The only glimmer of a crystal ball in this tiny cup of produce, however, was the glass crock in which it was served. Basically just a visually striking strata of beautifully
jewel-toned vegetables, they were much more interesting to conceive than to consume. Raw, shredded cabbage and fennel layered with ribbons of zucchini and mango were pretty but plain, and frankly didn't even compliment one another very well.
|Coconut Poached Salmon|
I think we chose poorly selecting dessert, whereas in retrospect I wish I would've opted for the flowery fruit soup, but instead I was lured by yuzu towards a roasted plantain and avocado gelato concoction, not quite summery enough for the steamy climes outdoors. But not only that, it was a little flat and one-dimensional, not to mention autumnal, where there are months still to go before sweet potatoes become relevant. The black lava salt atop the gelato was a nice touch, though.
Most of Dimes attention comes from the brunch crowd, but all of its menus have a breezy, healthful appeal. I'm not sure it's quite up to all the hype, but it's definitely a fun little adventure in which to partake. In short, Dimes is certainly worth a few of your dimes.
49 Canal Street