DIVERSION PDX: CAN FONT

 We never did quite determine the exact translation of Can Font, but all estimations esems to imply hospitality and bounty, both of which were certainly extant.  The place is just recalibrating its footing, and no need to reiterate, these days, it is rocky terrain.  Pandemic regulations and all the implications just keep throwing curves.  So while we were (thankfully) able to eat inside in a dining room which was relatively full, I still felt nervous that a place like this could survive. But it felt good to be out (and in) in downtown Portland.

The dining room is elemental: sparse without feeling desolate.  It would seem to benefit from a fuller house, for a bit more festivity.  A lovely chandelier of bulbous globes loomed above, and the bustle of the open kitchen helped.  Large murals of what appeared to be scenes of Catalan Spain... (perhaps Barcelona?) flank the bar and far wall (in which I recognize Gaudi-esque undulations), in subdued greys and black, cushioned banquettes of gorgeous teal velvet add a pop of color.

We started off with pan tomate, its rich salinity balancing surprisingly fresh and sweet tomato concasse for December... or even for July.  Four fat squares of pillowy bread, sharp with garlic, cushioned the mash, so there was plenty to share.  Which was good, given the garlic... at least we were all going to stink together.  

There was a nice kick of garlic in the Verduras Temporales as well, although they could've used both a little more time on the flame and a lot more romesco: instead they came across slightly dietetic, although far be it from me to really whole-heartedly complain about a platter of vegetables.  I wish they would've been more enticing, though, as pretty as they were to behold.  

My dining opportunities for this holiday trip to
Portland were too limited to get very ambitious in ordering: I ordered pretty conservatively, fearing to end up with something I didn't want.  Thus, two of us order the same entree, but it was so good there were no regrets.  The Zarzuela came as a hodgepodge of fresh seafood in a lusciously savory sauce, redolent with garlic, tomatoes and peppers, and maybe a touch of saffron in a rustic clay bowl, tinged with olive oil.  For diversity's sake, I wish I would've tried the salmon with lentils, but I couldn't have been happier with the fish stew itself.  

One tablemate was less enthused about by her polenta cake.  It wanted the sauciness of the zarzuela, but instead it had just a skimpy pool of red pepper coulis and not quite enough mushrooms to whet its whistle.  Makes me think the kitchen is a less enthusiastic about produce than protein, if our menu choices were any indication.

All that time spent NOT dining out had been filled baking at home, so we had tons of Christmas cookies on deck back at the homestead, making dessert at Can Font less appealing, but too their sweet offerings of a flourless chocolate cake and a dense cheesecake seemed a little heavy.   I wouldn't  doubt their deliciousness, however, as our dinner at Can Font had a pretty can-do aplomb.  

1015 NORTHWEST NORTHRUP STREET

tel.5032243911