BARBOUNIA

 Barbounia is no newcomer.  And it wasn't so much the chef that drew me here as the consistently full-house dining room, spilling out onto the sidewalks, even before the pandemic presented that as the only option for a spell.  In fact, the website states the proprietor as the source of direction rather than the chef, Amitzur Mor.  I have to say that may have been a clue to the outcome of the meal, which was satisfying and tasty, but not particularly memorable.

The room is pretty huge.  Underlit archways span across the ceilings, along with the aftermath of some undetermined party decorations.. perhaps balloon string, that never got removed after the festivities.  There is a large mural of a classically stoic Karl Lagerfeld on the west wall, big ceiling fans spinning languidly above.  The room was nearly filled upon our early arrival, and only got busier throughout the evening, so they're definitely doing something right.

Indicative of that was my choice of wine, indisputably the highlight of the night.  A gorgeous Gavi di Gavi , the nose of which sang of summer, the body pungent with strawberries and floral notes.  It was a spectacular summer quaff, if perhaps not that food friendly given it fruitiness, but that was more than all right, because it was mostly gone by the time our first plates arrived.  

We started off with a lusty eggplant dip, fire-roasted into a softly plush mash, electrified with tahini and zchug (sic), my latest favorite sauce, pureed into a smooth hummus-y nest.  It was fantastic plunged into with the stretchy flatbread crusted with flaky

 sea salt that arrived with our appetizers.  Actually, the bread was just great in its own right, piping hot, with a salty, toasty crust protecting its steaming, chewy interior.   

Crunchy falafel balls paired well with the both of these, distinctively garbanzo-y and plunked into a bed of tahini, pickly cornichons and a sprinkle of sumac adding some welcome zip.  

Now, my recollection of Barbounia (or association, as it were, having never been before) was that it originally began as a seafood-centric restaurant, but it has morphed into a pan-Mediterranean one, with a much broader menu, including lamb kofta, taboon-roasted chicken and a handful of beef dishes, including a short rib tagine with preserved lemon that would've sounded a lot better in weather about twenty or thirty degrees cooler than early August was bestowing upon Manhattan.  So my vegetarian tablemate opted for a dainty roasted cauliflower as an entree, although its urfa pepper glaze and smattering of earthy pinenuts gave it a lot of oomph.  There is a pan-roasted halibut on their website that isn't currently on offer, unfortunately, because it seemed to have a lot more personality than my whole branzino, 

which was perfectly fine but mostly forgettable.  Actually, the little pan fried zucchini that accompanied had a slightly off flavor, like they were maybe precooked and carried over from yesterday (or the day before?), but the broccolini was better, and the meaty cut of skin-on fish nicely cooked.  I could have used a larger dose of the preserved lemon and salsa verde upon which it was plated, but it parsed out well nonetheless.   A side of sauteed wild mushrooms was an excellent preparation, although probably unnecessary with the vegetable components of the meal already being sufficient.

Desserts left more to be desired, for me, at least.  Literally just a stone's throw (with a strong arm) from the farmer's market at Union Square, any seasonal fruit options (aside from some token berries) was noticeably lacking. Had our appetites not been fairly sated , I would've gone with the silan, a tahini (also perhaps having had enough tahini) mousse with halva and spiced milk ice cream.  There was also beignets, a nutty panna cotta, labneh cheesecake and a peanut-butter chocolate concoction for those who seem to need a gateway back to America via the dessert offerings after a very European repast.  I suppose I too might be among them, left wanting for a peach cobbler or strawberry shortcake.

Anyway, I get Barbounia's popularity for what it is.  There's nothing too challenging here, and even the more uncommon ingredients are imparted with a conservative hand. Would I recommend it?  Probably not without qualifiers.  Nor would I steer most people clear.  There's room for improvement, but regardless,  Barbounia is still a pleasant affair.

250 Park Avenue South

tel (212)995-0242