NUR

It will never not baffle me when, after trying for approximately four months to procure a reservation at Nur, I finally get there and the place is 2/3 empty.  Not on Resy; on Resy there was no availability whatsoever.  But this time I noticed a handy little button underneath all the time slots that were "sold out", a "Notify Me" option if a table would per chance open itself up for me.  And it did, around 11pm the night before, a 5:45 reservation became available.  Early sure, but you take what you can
 get.  So when we arrived a touch early and they sat us swiftly amongst the myriad unoccupied tables  (many of which remained so throughout the course of the evening), I was all the more frustrated. Had all these table been available all along, as I wait for Resy to show one to me, instead of (for whatEVER reason), showing that there was nothing 'til 10:30pm???  I even asked the waiter, but he had no better answer.  So.  Use that Notify Me button, or else just walk in... 'cause trust me, you WANT to eat here, and there probably is a table available whether Resy tells you there is or not.


So the room is longer than it is wide, but it's a cozy, glowy, low-lit space, the walls white-washed but a warm yellow light makes it feel softer.  Beautiful grey and white tiles compose the floor, and simply-clad waiters are at your service immediately with complimentary still or sparkling (always a nice touch, especially since this place is as costly as it is, having a little bubbly water amplifies the festivity).    The soundtrack is enough to make a reservation immediately: I think I was about to drive my tablemate singing along with the dancey 80's/90's soundtrack had he not been equally nostalgic about it.  It's not too loud to ignore if you needed, but I don't know why you would.   The food menu isn't huge but offers a lot of variety, and some of the offerings had already been replaced by specials
our waiter described to us in detail.  And from what I gleaned from just one visit, I think it's hard to go wrong here.  We started off with a veggie-heavy riff on a Caesar, and while it was a little over-dressed, that dressing was stellar, brightly acidic but cheesy-rich, which played well off of the steamed-tender melange of earthy green vegetables: broccoli, green beans, and Brussels sprouts, with charred cabbage for smokiness and romaine and kale to keep it salady.  Apparently new-fangled Caessars are the new avocado toast, popping up on four out of the five last menus from which I have ordered.  I don't have a
problem with this, especially since I'm not such a fan of the original.   More vegetables came in a very unconventional form.  I'm not sure the smoked eggplant carpaccio was that accurately named, aside from its very horizontal presentation, but it was both gorgeous and delicious.... the plate reminded me of a somewhat more-controlled Jackson Pollock.
 The eggplant was roasted smokey and kissed with rose water, giving the earthy nightshade a complex array of flavors.  Crunchy pistachios provided texture and crumbled feta a bit of tang and richness.  This made a most excellent spread for the enormous Jerusalem bagel, which in my opinion puts most bagels to shame, but again, I'm not a huge bagel fan.  They are too dense and heavy; in this rendition, it was as if its size was amplified with increasing the dough, just lightening the crumb substantially,
 almost croissant-like, while retaining its chewiness.  A smattering of sesame seeds clung to its deeply golden crust, and its delicacy further graced with Messabaha, a silkier, lighter version of hummus made from lima beans whipped with cumin and shipka peppers.


The main courses became even more difficult to decide upon, given the hefty quantity of food we had already chosen from the appetizers.  But we nailed our choice (although one never knows what other deliciousness we missed).  But the Jaffa Souvlaki was our server's self-proclaimed favorite as well, and it was easy to see why.  It was pretty much my perfect combination of foods: fish and seafood, creamy, salty hummus and caramelized onions, sweet and savory, and a healthy wad of spinach for greenery. The seabass was so
 meaty you could mistake it for steak, the calamari tender and flavorful, A juicy dice of tomatoes in vinaigrette added freshness, and the dish really could not be improved upon.  That said, all the entree (or large format dishes) looked so tempting and seemed to achieve that kind of trifecta (or quadrifecta) status.  Branzino with charred cabbage, spring veg, eggplant cream and tahini.  Dayboat scallops with creamed root vegetables, roasted cauliflower and mushrooms.  Interestingly, and which is not usually the case with middle eastern food, most of the entrees focus on fish or seafood, but they are not treated daintily: they are massive umami-bombs of abundance.

And thus, we weren't that disappointed when none of the desserts that were recited to us (there is no printed dessert menu) grabbed our attention.  After the heartiness of the food, some lighter options would have had more appeal, instead of a chocolate cake/affogato type concoction and a peanut butter mousse... all too much to add on top of fully sated appetites.  So when a little plate of delicate, housemade cookies accompanied the check, that more absolutely sufficient to close out a near-perfect meal.   Chewy coconut rounds were cool and subtle, buttery shortbread-sesame balls rich but light in texture.  It was also a nice gesture, given that Nur is no cheap date.  But you'll definitely be post-prandially satisfied on all levels, and as it might take a little gouge to your wallet, your soul will be commensurately enriched.

 

34 East 20th Street
New York, New York 10003

T. 212.505.3420