LA CENTRAL

In the midst of all the closings and bankruptcies of Chelsea restaurants, a glimmer of hope lies in a spectacular new project that has just opened its doors within the Hotel Americano. La Central, a dynamic pan-Latin eatery, has renowned chef Franklin Becker at its helm. But what makes this place fresh, exciting, timely and important is the collaborative initiative that brought it to life. 

Becker is no newcomer to New York’s restaurant scene. Born and raised in Brooklyn, he cut his teeth bussing tables in the early ’80s. Recognizing a natural affinity towards what others might regard as the chaos of the kitchen, Becker enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America. Upon graduation in ’92, he fell in with some of the best chefs in New York at the time: Charlie Palmer, David Walzog and Bobby Flay. It was Flay who introduced him to the allure of Latin American cuisine. 

So when the owners of Hotel Americano (who are from Mexico City) approached him just nine months ago about opening a restaurant in the space, the Latino focus was a no-brainer. Chef Becker took a good look at his kitchen staff — the Peruvians, Ecuadoreans and Salvadorans who were already a part of his team — and found the inspiration for La Central. He asked, “What do YOU cook?” and the effusion of replies become the foundation of the menu. 

La Central obviously doesn’t refer to the restaurant’s physical location, which is in the far reaches of West Chelsea on 27th Street, but to Central and South America, including influences from the Spanish, Portuguese, Chinese and Spanish settlers that populated those territories early on. The diverse kitchen, then, became a unifying instrument for the chef, his staff and its cuisine: a center, if you will, and thus, La Central was born. 

Duck Carnitas Tacos

Not only have their talents been elevated by cooking dishes with which they are familiar and comfortable, there emerged a tremendous pride of culture in sharing family recipes and regional specialities with the diners who would come to frequent the restaurant, and also among members of the staff. Any cultural differences between them melted, and alongside Chef Becker and even the front of house, they have united as a singular team like few kitchens ever accomplish. The staff calls Becker “Padrino,” which means grandpa, further illustrating the familial bond. 

The menu is like a playlist of the staff’s family recipes, sometimes seen through the eyes of chef Becker, and other times, directly adapted from the original. “I’m going to give them credit for what they’re doing.” Lucero Guittierrez, is from Cholula, Puebla, a town known for their moles and sauces, and opens the menu with her namesake Lucero’s Salsas: a 

Lucero's Salsas and housemade chips

spectrum of heat and color, spanning from a mild, bracing curtido, pungent with cloves, to an incendiary puree of chile di arbor that hits you in the back of the throat and just keeps on burning — in the best possible way. This is her first time cooking professionally, and she has even started making making her own tortillas, branching out as she’d never dreamed of before. 

Empanadas Colombianas

La Central’s team is really a team: the cooks note how working here feels different, like they are really fundamental partners, rather than just employees. Carlos Cartagena was born in the U.S., but his Salvadoran and Dominican roots shine through his deep golden pupusas, a vegetarian version stuffed with mushrooms and sweet winter squash. “Everyone in the kitchen is putting their culture into the menu,” he says, and there’s so much “more love and care” as a result. 

Roberto's Enchiladas

Marco Castro contributed the leche di Tigre, causa, and chaufa of his native Peru, all “food I used to eat” growing up. Roberto’s Enchiladas (Roberto Martinez is also from Cholula) are another highlight, fresh tortillas stuffed with the tenderest chicken, stewed and salty, smothered in an almost creamy salsa verde and drizzled in crema and a flounce of queso fresco. While it is listed as an appetizer, it’s in no way too skimpy for a main, especially with its depth of flavor. Rounded out with the chips and salsa or 

Seabass with parsley, garlic and jalapeño

one of the innovative side dishes, one could comprise a relatively economical meal. But while La Central is no divey bargain tacqueria, its prices are easily justified by the robust and nuanced flavors that sing

Classic rice and beans

from every plate, even if the portions weren’t as generous and filling as they are.

Peruvian Arroz Chaufa

Octopus Carnitas

Sometimes we might forget that we’re not the only Americans, that Central and South America share that title with Northerners, and comprise a huge part of our current population as well. Hotel Americano has provided a platform to usher in this inclusiveness, a reminder of the melting pot that we are. Whether it is via pot, skillet or cazuela, dinner at La Central has achieved something beyond just delicious food: it provides an example of how people, how Americans, can cooperate, collaborate, and thrive at their very best. As Marco Castro said, and in every sense, “this is good.”

Dessert "Churros"

La Central is located in the Hotel Americano, at 518 West 27th Street. The restaurant is open throughout the day for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Reservations through Open Table.

          518 West 27th Street
          (212)216-0000

NUR

It will never not baffle me when, after trying for approximately four months to procure a reservation at Nur, I finally get there and the place is 2/3 empty.  Not on Resy; on Resy there was no availability whatsoever.  But this time I noticed a handy little button underneath all the time slots that were "sold out", a "Notify Me" option if a table would per chance open itself up for me.  And it did, around 11pm the night before, a 5:45 reservation became available.  Early sure, but you take what you can
 get.  So when we arrived a touch early and they sat us swiftly amongst the myriad unoccupied tables  (many of which remained so throughout the course of the evening), I was all the more frustrated. Had all these table been available all along, as I wait for Resy to show one to me, instead of (for whatEVER reason), showing that there was nothing 'til 10:30pm???  I even asked the waiter, but he had no better answer.  So.  Use that Notify Me button, or else just walk in... 'cause trust me, you WANT to eat here, and there probably is a table available whether Resy tells you there is or not.


So the room is longer than it is wide, but it's a cozy, glowy, low-lit space, the walls white-washed but a warm yellow light makes it feel softer.  Beautiful grey and white tiles compose the floor, and simply-clad waiters are at your service immediately with complimentary still or sparkling (always a nice touch, especially since this place is as costly as it is, having a little bubbly water amplifies the festivity).    The soundtrack is enough to make a reservation immediately: I think I was about to drive my tablemate singing along with the dancey 80's/90's soundtrack had he not been equally nostalgic about it.  It's not too loud to ignore if you needed, but I don't know why you would.   The food menu isn't huge but offers a lot of variety, and some of the offerings had already been replaced by specials
our waiter described to us in detail.  And from what I gleaned from just one visit, I think it's hard to go wrong here.  We started off with a veggie-heavy riff on a Caesar, and while it was a little over-dressed, that dressing was stellar, brightly acidic but cheesy-rich, which played well off of the steamed-tender melange of earthy green vegetables: broccoli, green beans, and Brussels sprouts, with charred cabbage for smokiness and romaine and kale to keep it salady.  Apparently new-fangled Caessars are the new avocado toast, popping up on four out of the five last menus from which I have ordered.  I don't have a
problem with this, especially since I'm not such a fan of the original.   More vegetables came in a very unconventional form.  I'm not sure the smoked eggplant carpaccio was that accurately named, aside from its very horizontal presentation, but it was both gorgeous and delicious.... the plate reminded me of a somewhat more-controlled Jackson Pollock.
 The eggplant was roasted smokey and kissed with rose water, giving the earthy nightshade a complex array of flavors.  Crunchy pistachios provided texture and crumbled feta a bit of tang and richness.  This made a most excellent spread for the enormous Jerusalem bagel, which in my opinion puts most bagels to shame, but again, I'm not a huge bagel fan.  They are too dense and heavy; in this rendition, it was as if its size was amplified with increasing the dough, just lightening the crumb substantially,
 almost croissant-like, while retaining its chewiness.  A smattering of sesame seeds clung to its deeply golden crust, and its delicacy further graced with Messabaha, a silkier, lighter version of hummus made from lima beans whipped with cumin and shipka peppers.


The main courses became even more difficult to decide upon, given the hefty quantity of food we had already chosen from the appetizers.  But we nailed our choice (although one never knows what other deliciousness we missed).  But the Jaffa Souvlaki was our server's self-proclaimed favorite as well, and it was easy to see why.  It was pretty much my perfect combination of foods: fish and seafood, creamy, salty hummus and caramelized onions, sweet and savory, and a healthy wad of spinach for greenery. The seabass was so
 meaty you could mistake it for steak, the calamari tender and flavorful, A juicy dice of tomatoes in vinaigrette added freshness, and the dish really could not be improved upon.  That said, all the entree (or large format dishes) looked so tempting and seemed to achieve that kind of trifecta (or quadrifecta) status.  Branzino with charred cabbage, spring veg, eggplant cream and tahini.  Dayboat scallops with creamed root vegetables, roasted cauliflower and mushrooms.  Interestingly, and which is not usually the case with middle eastern food, most of the entrees focus on fish or seafood, but they are not treated daintily: they are massive umami-bombs of abundance.

And thus, we weren't that disappointed when none of the desserts that were recited to us (there is no printed dessert menu) grabbed our attention.  After the heartiness of the food, some lighter options would have had more appeal, instead of a chocolate cake/affogato type concoction and a peanut butter mousse... all too much to add on top of fully sated appetites.  So when a little plate of delicate, housemade cookies accompanied the check, that more absolutely sufficient to close out a near-perfect meal.   Chewy coconut rounds were cool and subtle, buttery shortbread-sesame balls rich but light in texture.  It was also a nice gesture, given that Nur is no cheap date.  But you'll definitely be post-prandially satisfied on all levels, and as it might take a little gouge to your wallet, your soul will be commensurately enriched.

 

34 East 20th Street
New York, New York 10003

T. 212.505.3420