Tuesday, June 19, 2018

KUBEH

Kubeh features kubeh (stuffed dumplings much like pierogi), but also kibbeh, which are not unlike kofte, which are sometimes served as a kebab, but not here.  And though some of the menu items may seem familiar, nothing' s that confusing once you get the hang of it.  Plus, the servers are practically chomping at the bit to walk you through things, and happy to offer suggestions or personal favorites:  you shouldn't feel out of your element even if you actually are.

It's a bright and airy space, primarily turquoise in hue and sharing that hue's chipper mood; lots of tiles and woven wall-hanging, baskets and real plant provide a very laid-back, vacation-y feel.  The vibe syncs with the menu, both of which are comfortably casual. It's a pretty big menu, though, so lots of options might make it better for biggish groups, or repeat visits.  Middle Eastern mezes spreads, and  salads start things off, and we opted for a shared plate that sort of combined the three.  And it was a GREAT salad... I wouldn't have minded it at all for a light meal in and of itself.  Not a revolutionary combination, but each component was stellar, from the large florets of cauli roasted to a delightful nuttiness but still retaining its vegetal integrity, a smooth and salty hummus rich with tahini, perked up with bursting rubies of pomegranate seeds and a flutter of zippy arugula.  It screamed for some fresh naan, which was not included but well worth the extra dollar spent.




Okay, so the thing that did throw me a curve was the eponymous kubeh, since the top of the menu described this foodstuff as (like I said) a dumpling, but our server explained that two of the options in this section are, and two are not. So even though the Syrian lamb and Syrian fish "kubeh"are in the kubeh section I don't think they are really kubeh.  Unless I'm still mixed up, but any problem is alleviated by the deliciousness of either.  We got a true kubeh (Iraqi vegetable), the relatives thick dough surprisingly delicate, and stuffed with mushrooms.  You choose your broth, so it's a kind of mix-and-match scenario with these, and in retrospect I would've chosen a different broth for them (we go the Hamusta, keeping things vegetarian with Swiss chard, lemon and

 zucchini)... I think the Persian chicken, which in fact sounds so interesting with it's chickpea, carrot and dried lime that if I DO venture back, I would definitely want that.  The other kubeh, dumpling-style, is the Kurdish Siske, while the Syrian-style kubeh are either not kubeh or at least they don't have the dough wrapping. They are meatballs of either lamb or cod, the latter of which was recommended by both our servers ( who were charmingly oblivious of one another so we basically got the same spiel twice at each turn).  With these I chose the tomato, mint, fennel and arak, which compounded the subtle licorice flavor.  There was a big unexpected hunk of fennel bulb in there, too, which was wildly tasty.

Aside from the kubeh confusion, there are also entree-sized main platters, a couple of chicken dishes, a beef and a vegetarian couscous one.  Plus side dishes, to which I was ebullient to see a very un-seasonal but utterly delectable Brussels sprouts preparation.. they were a little spicy and sweet and just really yummy.  Rich, yes, and so were a lot of the small plates options, like a creamy haricots verts with yogurt and seared halloumi, or fried beef kibbeh with pine nuts,  but there are also a lot of fresh, healthy-ish plates like simple charred shishito peppers, roasted eggplant with mint or a Shirazi salad with tomato, radish and cukes.

I kinda loved this place, overall, but also I've had my heart set on visiting Nur, which is somewhat in the same vein but both astronomically more expensive and really hard to get into at a reasonable hour.  But anyways, Kubeh set the bar: Nur better be really freaking fantastic (and I'm sure it is) to charge what it does when you can get some super-yum on a Kubeh for a fraction of the cost.  Let the buyer ... and the eater... be aware.





                         464 AVE OF AMERICAS
tel : 646 - 448 - 6688

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