DIVERSION/PDX: TUSK

The name Tusk doesn't come from any endangered species, as precious and unique an entity though this restaurant is.  The inspiration was a Fleetwood Mac album that was deemed a commercial failure by its label but had substantial cult appeal.  Tusk, on
 the other hand, might accomplish both.  An
idyllic middle eastern haven serving absolutely Instagrammable and absolutely divine food, it is well worth the hype and then some.  The national buzz that this NE Portland yearling gleaned makes a reservation there one tough ticket.  But your efforts will be rewarded multi-fold.  On a balmy,
 crystal clear summer evening, the sun filtering through huge plate glass window flung open into the adjacent garden, strut gup with fairy lights and rife with happy faces.  A palpable gaiety percolates into the dining room, an enthusiasm that translates into an audible din, making a it a feat, at times, to hear some of your server's witty quips.... but then, it is difficult to disparage joy.





And it is joy that abounds, increasingly more so as the food begin to appear.  An eclectic vegetable plate features an array from local farms: striped chioggia beets, icy-crisp fennel, sweet mild onions, ruffled leaves of verdant lettuce, all sliced as thing as they could be while still retaining an appreciable crunch.  The whole platter is showered with a hefty dusting of za'atar, rendering the sumac-dusted whipped feta and fragrant coriander dip served aside almost unnecessary.  That said, any remaining dips can be useful to daub at throughout the course of the meal, for while the flavors are all unique and specific, they meld well enough with one another to allow for a magnificent symbiosis.

Photo credit: Bon Appetit

Do not not order the hummus, the cover darling of a recent issue of Bon Appetit magazine, (and as their photo was better than mine... or okay, full disclosure: I guess I forgot to photograph it) offered in classic and roasted eggplant upon my visit (which actually is not the one pictured).  Go for the latter, studded with soft cubes of the vegetables and a generous slosh of olive oil.  But the velvety hummus itself is the star, simultaneously light and rich, plonked through with chewy, earthy garbanzos like you've (or at least I've) never tasted- these babies were never dried.  I t comes with a single, fluffy and chewy pita, so a bigger group should order more for the table, and it will be put to good use throughout the meal.  There wasn't a sauce or juice on any dish that didn't warrant swabbing up the last dabs.


The best example of that was the roasted eggplant slathered in saffron tahini, flecked with piquant rounds of hot peppers and crunchy bits of crushed pistachio.   We couldn't have been luckier to have been a trio, allowing a full half per person.  Okay, well, we COULD have been luckier... I could've eaten the whole plate myself.  But the best dish of the night was the roasted lobster mushrooms, dense and meaty halves boasting an exquisite char and chew and nestled into a thick, lusty puree shrouded in a seedy, nutty dukkah that just begged for more pita.  Little coriander blossoms adorned the plate, adding a bit of delicacy to the hearty dish.
Again, perfectly portioned for a threesome, which made me wonder if they didn't plate according to party size.  I wouldn't put this past them.

Tusk is set up for sharing, so coming with a posse is an ideal tactic.  But some of the larger plates could easily serve as an entree, if you prefer a traditional course-by-course approach.  Even though this hominy dish was listed under "Vegetables, Fruits, Grains and...." the focus was the tender chunks of pork shoulder.   Smothered in hominy and fresh corn, the savory meat juices mingled with that of  buxom cherry tomatoes bolstered with sweet and hot peppers.

Beef coulotte (sic) was less exciting but still solid, the juicy meat tender and rosy, festooned with a rainbow of fruity melted peppers.  And it was still good enough not to be considered a misstep... the only one of those we performed was missing dessert.  We were just too dang full, but now looking back at that dessert menu, at least we saved ourselves the agony of choosing.  A matcha pavlova with dark chocolate pudding, black- and blueberries; peaches Kanafeh with fresh cheese and phyllo; roasted sweet corn hushpuppies with raspberries and orange blossom yogurt; strawberry-apricot granita with sumac and ground cherries, or even a simple halva soft serve with hot fudge and crushed peanuts.... ARE YOU KIDDING ME!?!  The pain will sustain until a return visit, far too long in the making.



But for this time, while we arrived at Tusk on the early side, it was wait-list busy from start to finish, so getting a table there is a bit of an issue, and I'm sure it will stay so for quite some time.  And while some complaints have surfaced in regards to price, the profound flavors and superlative quality of everything (from food to ambiance to service) justify the receipts.  After all, unlike one record album in a band's repertoire, restaurants cannot sustain themselves on artistic success.   You'll appreciate being there, but not only that: you'll feel appreciated for being there.  And that is a winning combination.




   
2448 EAST BURNSIDE
tel .  (502)894-8082

2448 EAST BURNSIDE STREET
PORTLAND, OREGON 97214
503.894.8082