Dark and modern, Fonda is still retains a quaintly neighborhood feel. We had such pleasant rapport with the hosts and servers, as well as the bar tender in front of whom we sat, as we arrived reservationless and opted to be seated immediately at the bar rather than waiting a tad for a table. Bar seating gives you full view of the t.v. monitors, which is a less fetching perspective than the tables surrounding from which you can appreciate the vibrant modern Mexican art on the walls. The art is a good indicator of the cuisine, as well, which edges on contemporary Mexican rooted in his native Mexico City.
velvety sludge of black beans pooling around, which provided some lubrication and heft. A small salad accompanies entrees, as if a token gesture to ameliorate the lack of vegetation. Although the vegetarian enchiladas feature an appreciable array of dirt candy, I wanted something a little cheffier... and some protein.
Desserts are fairly classic and hearty: a caramelly banana bread pudding, a chocolate brownie with cajeta or the iconic tres leches. But it's hard to want more starch after all of that that constitutes the dinner menu, so this time desserts were skipped. A return visit could be formatted strategically to make dessert more appealing, however, and for my take on Fonda, that isn't at all an unreasonable prospect.
189 9th Avenue @ 21st Street
· tel. 917 525 5252