former and the soulful rusticity of the latter are also evident in the menu. It is named after the botanical betony, a flowering herb that claims healing properties, and it also folklorically purported to fend of evil spirits and bad luck. Fortunately, any demons jinxing the location seemed to have picked up and run when Eleven Madison alums Eamon Rockey and Executive Chef Bryce Shuman took over, and thus Betony itself is up and running, too, but in a graceful, eloquent cadence.
|Cucumber salad before......|
insinuate. The opposite effect came into play with the potato gnocchi, a dish normally tending towards to heavy side, but these pillowy dumplings were light as clouds, pooled in a thin, summery corn puree studded with fat kernels, tiny
thin slips of the same sliced lengthwise. Sprigs of succulent purslane decorated the dish, adding freshness and fancy, and flecks of chili powder added just a kiss of heat.
An entree of poached black bass arrived skin-on, it silvery scales edged in black made me wish you could use fish skin for boots. Its flesh was just as luxurious, mild and tender as it sloped into a pool infused with tomatillos, bedecked with gossamer sliced of summer squash, and one, fat roasted plank that tasted as nutty as the toasted pignoli suspended in the broth. The roasted chicken, the test of a true chef, boasted that rich, pure flavor one strives for in such a simple dish, paired with humble turnips and fancy chanterelles in lashings of savory gravy I wish they could
bottle and sell by the quart. The chicken comes with a bonus side- hearty farrow with shredded dandelion greens and confit breast meat, a silky quail egg oozing to anoint the grains, warm and nourishing as a grandma's hug.
Another palate cleanser is bequeathed, this one even more wonderful: a thin disc of compressed honeydew infused with spearmint floats in a cool buttermilk cream with a frosty melon sorbet. It's an absolutely perfect pause to begin desserts, exhilaratingly fresh and inspired.
Betony could hold its own in any neighborhood, but its particularly welcome here on the upper cusp of midtown. Its novel, inspired cocktail menu makes it as perfect a destination for drinks after work as it is for a special dinner, reasonable enough for everyday and fancy enough for occasions. So I think they can keep the betony to use for tabletop posies: there doesn't seem to be any jinx left to ward off.