Friday, September 23, 2011
THE HIGHLINER (The Empire Diner)
It would've been hard to improve upon The Empire Diner for it's sheer diner-ness. Luckily, when the old queen lost her reign and a new hierarchy took the helm, its landmarked status preserved the shiny, chrome dining car and all its trimmings, so that all the energies on renovation and improvement went straight to the menu. And its a good thing, too; now you can eat at The Empire and actually enjoy more than just the nostalgia.
biscuits and gravy or a Benedict with your choice of salmon, bacon or pork loin. There's a lot to choose from here, even some ethnic options like Chilaquiles, which were good but could've been a tad saucier, although the wispy-cloudlike poached eggs atop were expertly done and lubed things up as they released their silky yolks.
The appetizer we ordered could easily have stood in as a light main course, as well. A raft of
All in all, I was pretty happy with The Highliner. The food is by no means destination-worthy alone, but along with the historic address, completely sufficient. I would not at all be opposed to returning for dinner, too, to sample some of their evening fare. (The steelhead and the fried chicken look appealing, as well as some of the desserts: a rootbeer float with sarsaparilla ice cream- and to find out just what in the heck is "whey meringue" on the lemon pie.) No guarantees, of course, but then again there never is. Except for that The Highliner will ALWAYS be The Empire, as long as that chrome facade gleams.
THE HIGHLINER 210 10th Ave. (between 22nd St & 23rd St)
Posted by webdebnyc at 9:26 PM