Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Even Midas can't touch Andrew Carmellini's success rate. He left A Voce at the peak of its popularity, and opened Locanda Verde with even greater aplomb and accolades, appealing not only to the foodiest of foodies, but the trendiest of hipsters. The Dutch will trump the deuce, charming farmings and socialites, critics and tourists. Right now, A.C. can do no wrong. And on the night I was in, he didn't. There was one service mishap, but more on that later.
We've got that same room that Roman & Williams has perfected. A mish-mash of lamps,
We stayed on the piscine side of things in terms of entrees, although the smoked and roasted chicken looked impeccable at the next table. Grilled black cod with chili peas and scallions
And then our waitress came with the dessert menus... until she looked as if she had made some hugely offensive error, turned on her heel, and disappeared. We looked befuddled at one another, and then deduced the obvious: chef must be sending out dessert. Moments later she reappeared, beaming, with two plates, announcing, "Compliments of Andrew." Now, mind you, I'm not going to besmear anyone for giving me free anything, but at the same time, there is ONE good thing about being an adult: you get to choose for yourself. Except when you don't, and that's how we missed out on the spring sundae, a refreshingly decadent sounding concoction of buttermilk-lemon sherbet and rhubarb on a brown sugar blondie... some of my favorite dessert elements packed in one. The other, a classic strawberry shortcake, but this one made the CORRECT way: a crusty biscuit with a tender crumb, bulging with ripe strawberries and thick, malty vanilla ice cream. My mom would approve. There are even
Posted by webdebnyc at 8:24 PM