And then, tragically, they were the worst thing we ordered. Well, if you like unadorned, raw brussels sprouts, well, here's your dish. To be fair, they were paired up with thinly sliced apples and walnuts, and a pretty little salad, but nothing on the menu indicated that they would be raw, and quite surely, they were listed just beneath a cauliflower options that was roasted into complete and divine submission, salty and soft with the crispiness of breadcrumbs to counter the pillowy pulp into which the crucifer had been reduced to. Or uplifted to, in actuality. And that is how forgettable the disappointment of the brussels sprouts were, whisked away by our charming waiter, after explaining how they were not at all what we expected. That cauliflower was brought in its stead, and a wonderful substitute it was.
Nutty and plush, bedecked with toasty breadcrumbs anointed with olive oil and anchovies that only deepened the savoriness of the dish.
This is what one should expect from the food at The Commerce Inn, hearty and savory and utterly delectable, but refined and nuanced in the fashion that these two ladies are well known for. Not dissimilar from Major Food Group, Ms Sodi and Ms Williams have what amounts to a Midas Touch, and especially with the fickle nature of the New York dining scene, have proven their prowess time and time again. The Commerce Inn is no exception, and perhaps in my opinion, my favorite of their mini-empire.
The room is barn-like and spacious, although a lot of table are packed into the room, so noise levels can escalate and there is a definite feeling of conviviality and ease. The menu on the website is much more succinct than the actual offerings, with almost as many specials listed daily as were listed on the menu provided, in its funky Amish script and elemental descriptions. We order quite a bit of food for just two people, but there were so many things left on that menu I still wanted to try: the green beans with bacon, Shaker beans, either of the two fishes (a porgy or a whole seabass), all of which looked sensational.
But that cauliflower was equally as good, and if I had to only recommend one dish as a must-have from the experience, it would definitely be the cod cakes. They were sublime, meaty with tons of fresh, flaky white fish and tender nubs of potato, nicely salted and crisp of crust. Had the brussels sprouts only have enjoyed the same treatment.......
From then on we trended on the meaty side of things, the best of which was a pot roast-like mince served over thick slices of toasted sourdough- sort of like an open-faced pot-roast sammy. Or not "pretty much"; that's what it was. And a sensational rendition of it. I was less thrilled with the Flinstones-esque beef rib, a special of the night. Although visually impressive in its heft alone, served on the bone (or at least for as long as the tender meat would cling to it). Too fatty for my tastes, but the parsnips alongside soaked up a lot of the jus poured over top tableside, and my tablemate and I were a bit Jack Sprat about the whole affair, so it ended well.
We were unfortunately a bit topped out after all that, but those desserts... from an apple cobbler (that I still would made room for had my tablemate cooperated), homemade pudding or a sticky date cake, all would warrant a repeat visit. And in a completely out-of-character move, I will go back and order those cod cakes again, which is frankly unprecedented, and hopefully clarifies exactly just how awesome they were, and this whole place is.
50 Commerce Street
www.thecommerceinn.com
