Thursday, April 25, 2019

ABCV

I'm not vegan.  I'm not even vegetarian.  But I am a total vegephile, so when I needed a destination for my part-time vegan friend and I at which to dine, I went straight to ABCV, which has been lingering on my to-eat list for awhile now.  ABC Kitchen (its farm-to-table predeceessor),still holds a place dear to my heart even without Dan Kluger, the wunderkind behind its magic.  It was my go-to recommendation for a LONG time (before Losing Place opened) for that type of cuisine, and I enjoyed ABC Cocina as well, all of these alphabetically titled eateries under the broad jurisdiction of Jean-Georges Vongerichten .  But of the three, I have to say I may have enjoyed ABCV best of all... and none of my dining companions would disagree.


They got there a little earlier than I and were deep into their thirteen dollar cold-pressed juices by the time I joined them.  In addition to the array of juices there are "Vibrations" (lots and lots of Vs here, thanks to Vongerichten) which are described as restorative tonics, combing such peculiar flora as ashwaganda, St. John's wort or rhodiola to achieve various temperaments, like mindfulness and centering.  For two dollars more, I opted to center myself with an excellent Vespaiolo; for my sake, a wholly vegetarian dinner still seems a bit virtuous so I felt fully justified indulging in a glass of wine, even if my tablemates did remain securely belted atop their respective wagons.


The menu is broken down into Vegetables: Light & Fresh or Warm & Hot, starchier Noodles & Rice and Legumes, and a couple of Dosa options.  The vegetable dishes are somewhat less substantial in terms of satiety than the latter two, but the portions are no less generous.

From the Light & Fresh category, little could be fresher than avocado lettuce cups, with saucer-sized leaves cradling fanned-out slices of avocado, punched up with Serrano pepper, cumin and a bright blast of citrus.  Lovely nasturtium blossoms added a little more pepperiness and a lovely shot of color to breakup the. monochromatic greenness of the un-deconstructed salad.    A smoky puree of
 eggplant was just a bright and zesty, although a little more robust.  It was served with chilled crudités and warm, chewy pita bread, but the crisp veggies held it better within the bounds of its category.  Cute little dollops of
 yogurt and polka dots of tomato chutney gave a whimsical, festive appearance and assimilated brilliantly into the creamy dip.  A beet tartare could have been easily mistaken from afar for its carnivorous counterpart- visually, that is.  The thinly sliced crimson root's earthy sweetness showed well against a light dijon vinaigrette, surprised with pickly bits of sliced cornichon and a dab of avocado puree to soothe the tang.  




Moving on to Warm & Hot (which I think I could have gratefully ordered and inhaled ALL of), we began with some lusty donku shiitakes, which were both as picturesque as they were delicious, thus you get to enjoy two photos of them until you can reward yourselves with the real thing.  Drizzled in yuzukoshu green goddess and paired with richly roasted cipollini onions, it was just a playground of layered umami.  I was in anguish choosing between roasted cauliflower and and char-grilled artichokes, but our server steered us to the former, and my tablemates were in cahoots, so I missed out on those thistley harbingers of spring.  Not that there was any complaint to issue about the cauli; 
it was a lovely rendition sluiced in tahini and tossed with pomegranate arils and pistachios for crunch.  It's just that the whole roasted cauliflower (in truth, we opted for but a half) is getting a little played-out, and it is one dish easy enough to make on one's own... as opposed to artichokes, which are a comparative lot of work and subsequently a greater treat, imho. 








  

With a table of three, we still had ample room for some of the starchier options, and that's even as we had all earned Clean Plate Gold Stars from the previous dishes.  Mushrooms called out to us again, though, so we tried both the Morel 
Wontons and a bolognese riff substituting walnuts in for beef.   The wontons in the former were simply filmy-thin. shrink-wrapping their morel filling.  They were the utmost pleasure to bite into and release the toothsome, plump mushrooms embraced within, and the broth marvelously rich, especially considering its lack of animally bits and bones usually crucial to good stock.  I preferred it greatly to the carrot paccheri pseudo-bolognese, its floppy pasta tubes a little undercooked and
 stiff, and the sugo under seasoned.  But I find that is normally the case with vegan/vegetarian food, too.  It is at its best when it focuses on the ingredient, and not when it is trying to replicate a traditionally un-veg concoction, upon which most of ABCV triumphs.









Desserts were pleasant but perhaps slightly less noteworthy, but that is perhaps because the one I so desperately wanted from the menu had somehow become unavailable (a strawberry-rhubarb sundae that had my name written all over it) .  Instead, the combination of the two we ended up choosing actually worked best combined with one another than on their own: a coconut custard cut the dense richness of the chocolate mousse, and the tropical fruits of mango and passionfruit worked well with the
 islandy custard.  And the custard's cape gooseberries, strewn like jewels alongside more pomegranate arils, are always a novel delicacy on their own.   




Now, I cannot say in truth that I didn't wake up hungrier than perhaps I normally do after a dinner out, but I inarguably felt absolutely sated upon completion of our meal at ABCV.  That said, we ordered quite a lot of food, so volume had a lot to do with it.  But the flavors and composition of the dishes were more than satisfying, and the competence of the chef (who is Neal Harden, by the way) evident in both in the deliciousness and the artistry of his plating.  For omnivores and even devout carnivores, ABCV might be the best veg NYC has to offer, especially during pre-bikini season.  You can certainly indulge here and tax your calorie RDA to the hilt if you make a point of it, but it is just as easy if not easier to get a brilliantly flavorful, rejuvenating and inspiring meal keeping things light as feather... or perhaps a sweet pea blossom.




38 east 19th street new 
p: 212.475.5829


Tuesday, April 2, 2019

GOTHAM BAR & GRILL 35th ANNIVERSARY DINNER SERIES

I love holidays.  I love National Whatever Days, celebrations and theme parties.  So what Gotham Bar & Grill is doing to celebrate their monumental 35th anniversary appeals to me immensely.  They
 are holding a series of dinners, with special menus dedicated and inspired by each New York Times critic that has reviewed them throughout the course of their operations.  Each critic helped design a four course menu (which will cost $84) inspired by the dishes included in their reviews, beginning with Gael Greene, followed by Bryan Miller, Ruth Reichl and Sam Sifton.  (Apparently Bruni didn't cover them, or else he wasn't into it.). But the idea is so cool, and regardless it's an institution that deserves support and traffic.







The held a kick-off brunch last Sunday, a meal for which they normally do not open, so it was particularly special to attend.  The menu was broad but sophisticated, as one would expect.  There were sweeter offerings like Belgian waffles and a granola parfait, but more savory courses that one could easily see on its lunch or dinner menu.  A frisee salad
 with chewy, meaty lardons and equally chewy and meaty shiitakes came topped with a op-art caliber egg, gently cooked to just solidify its white and retain the golden vibrance of its yolk.  A kicky sherry vinaigrette moistened those bristly greens and tied the whole things together.  A vegetable risotto was gratifyingly veg-heavy, but it was also really salt- and cream- heavy, making it a little gloppier than the ideal, but still really tasty.
  Branzino came skin-on, crisp-skinned and pristinely fresh, caching a braise of softened fennel bulb and strips of sweet peppers.  A blood orange puree added a bright nudge of acidity and a little sweetness, but the dish was still surprisingly decadent.  And while I normally save dessert as an after-
dinner treat only, the semifreddo was sublime, the custard itself cool and frothy.  But the real highlight was the tangy rhubarb compote and equally zippy strawberry sorbet, tricking one into forgetting the weather man has still been reporting wintery forecasts.  A signature chocolate cake was dense and fudgy, topped
 with a quenelle of marvelous salted almond ice cream.  Their coffee is a specialty roast as well, created for Gotham by For Five Roasters out of Queens, but I found the blend a little over-roasted.  You can get burnt at Starbucks; at such an elegant restaurant I wished they'd've
designed a more subtle rendition.   It fared better in the cappuccino, whose foam was exquisitely swirled into a mesmerizing spiral.  Beautiful little touches like that will arise throughout.

And this post isn't so much about the brunch anyways (although they are offering a beautiful Easter Brunch which may feature some of those same dishes.  It's about the Times critics dinner series, which looks extraordinary.  The menus can be found on their website as they unfold (Green's and Miller's are currently visible).  Congratulations to Chef Portale and such a fine organization to have persisted so long and with such elegance and quality.







12 East 12th Street between 5th and University
tel.  1(212)620-4020