Instead, we'll keep things serious, as this kind of food demands considered attention. Chef Soogil Lim is South Korean, but began his culinary career at Daniel after graduation from the C.I.A. Soogil shows that expertise, subtly introducing Korean ingredients to French preparations. The room is, shall we say, succinct, probably seating about 40 people tops, spare in designs but cozy and attractive. A warm, fresh summer evening allowed the front windows to remain flung open, comfortably, throughout; a rare occasion in typically muggy, fetid New York. The wine list is thoughtful with good variety, and there are also beautifully composed cocktails, and even fresh pressed grape juices from notable wine grape varietals. Every detail at Soogil is very well considered, which left the lackluster service even more striking. We were seated efficiently, but a few questions asked during the course of the meal remained unanswered, and there wasn't much attentiveness given once dishes were doled out. It's hard to know whether there might have been
some language issues with some of the staff, as few words were shared. Our primary server, however, was enthusiastic and helpful, and offered some good suggestions for ordering. We began with the tofu salad with aster green and yu choy, but this was my least favorite dish of the night. It tasted a little murky, and too sesame-y, although the texture was interesting with salty cushions of tofu mashed into the vegetables: it almost hinted at polenta. Better, and lovelier, was the asparagus salad with green garbanzos, arugula and an egg-thickened mustard dressing, which might have been applied slightly too
generously, but overall the salad with zingy and refreshing, vibrantly green and fresh. There are more straight-forward Mediterranean options, too, such as a fairy classic heirloom tomato salad with mozzarella, as well as singularly Korean preparations like glass noodles with fiery bulgogi.
The spice levels are deftly kept in check, however; even the spiciest dish called Monk Starr (for which we never received explanation) exhibited only a nuanced heat, wonderfully contained in a rich lobster broth rife with noodley strands of ribboned vegetables and bean sprouts. Spanish Mackerel is the dish for both mackerel haters and sushi-phobes: this exquisite, meaty fish hadn't a hint of mackerel's notorious fishiness nor oiliness, and it was perched, sushi-style, atop chewy, fragrant rice swaddled in emerald leaves of Swiss chard, with a tangy, sweet umami kick from dabs of ssamjang,
perhaps my new favorite condiment. If mackerel always tasted like this, it would tolerate decidedly less derision. It was beautifully plated as well, crowned with wisps of ginger and a single, tiny micro green boutonniere.
For the most part, every dish is. under $20, although two slightly larger ones (the chicken and the short ribs) are just over. The short rib, served on the bone, gives the initial impression of more meat than in actuality, but the plush medallions of eggplant and halved baby zucchini round it out nicely. I'm not usually a big fan of kimchi, but Soogil's is mild and tender, just whispering heat and funk rather than screaming it. If anything, Soogil might amp up the Scovilles ever so slightly, but the flavors his concocts are mesmerizing, and his ingredients speak for themselves. If you want traditional Korean, this is probably not your place.
Just two desserts are offered, a Jenga Tower of seven grain cake planks strategically balanced over honey chestnut gelato. An utterly 'grammable dessert, for sure, and I'm sure you can find multiple images of it on the interwebs, but less appealing to me than a passion fruit tart.... although in the height of summer fruit production it seems a bit of a pity not to use some beautiful local berry or stone fruit, but in execution, there is nothing to criticize about this delicate tart, a buttery, tender crust bursting with tangy passion fruit curd and elegantly diced mango flecked with deep purple filaments of holy basil. There's not much I didn't love about Soogil, and quite a bit I did. I would quickly go back for the Monk Starr and mackerel, and most of the other dishes convinced me I'd enjoy pretty much anything the Chef Soogil might concoct from the season's offerings for his novel, inspired menu.
108 East 4th Street
tel. (212)529-3704
www.soogil.com
