THE FLOWER SHOP

Just because The Flower Shop is located on the cusp of Chinatown doesn't mean it is at ALL Asian.  In fact, it is pretty much as American as American can get, sorta 1970's retro American at that.  At least in vibe and decor, this cute little joint way down on Eldridge Street seems pricey for the neighborhood, but reasonable given New York standards.  The food is very good, although not exceptional.  More along the lines of tasty and drink-friendly rather than cheffy.  It does have glimmers of finery, though, with black garlic fancifying the mayo on a hearty burger, and more exotic ingredients like burnt lime and togarashi.  But the theme here is more risqué and

retro than avant garde: the wallpaper has funny water-colored line drawings of whimsical characters, and the tchotchkes that clutter the funky little space exemplify the throwback soundtrack, complete with ceiling fan and leatherette banquettes.  It's like a cross between (unfortunately closed) Mr. Donahue's and The Eddy (who lost their magnificent chef, Brendan McHale).  So maybe it can swoop in to fill a niche.

It's no diner, though, quaint as it is: the food is much more refined than that.  For example, we started off with an English pea tostada smeared with whipped ricotta under a dollop of trout roe, and a Scotch egg slathered in whole grain mustard, so there are far-flung influences.  Our server explained that the menu was designed for sharing, 

which servers seem to love to say these days.  But nothing was conducive to such: either you'd have to cut things all apart to divide and conquer, or dole them out in portions, but neither were sharing plates nor communal utensils provided for any of the dishes.  So while the menu doesn't break down into any categories, it's pretty obvious which ones would work for apps or entrees, and it's really easier that order going that route.  

So the aforementioned egg and tostada can be "snacks", and then there are some salads to fulfill the appetizer quota.  There is a beet one chummed up with burrata, kumquats and pistachios, or a summer vegetable crudite plate, inexplicably described as "boiled in oil" (??) but still raw.  We didn't get it, so I don't know exactly what that meant.  But our heirloom tomato panzanella could've use a little more pane, as the super-ripe and juicy fruits released quite a pool of liquid to the bottom of the shallow cerulean bowl,

 with not enough croutons to soak it up, but a tasty concoction nonetheless, although not being a watercress fan I would've preferred it festooned with arugula or sorrel. 

Bigger plates were just as individualized; sure, you can share 'em, as pretty much anything is cut-in-halfable.  Like that hamburger with its black garlic mayo, zippy pickle, cheddar and fries.... the fries of which definitely got shared amongst us.  Especially since the rib eye steak frites came with more of them, pretty good ones too: straight-cut classics, golden and crispy.  They come with their own little crocks of ketchup, but the steak got a brown butter hollandaise, which was kind of gilding the lily in terms of richness, but a delicious sauce.    Fried chicken comes in a

 what would appear as a bucket, but it's a nifty ceramic vessel, stuffed at the bottom making it look like more chicken than you

 actually get, but still there is ample bird.  The burnt lime here makes sense with the intense curry sauce provided for dipping.   Line-caught cod provided a lighter sounding option, but when it arrived, cloaked in parmesan, I feared they were hiding something.  But not to worry:
 the cloud-like filaments soon dissolved into almost nothingness, although they did contribute so added salinity to an already saline dish.  Ribbons of summer squash wrapped around the plush hunk of fish, seasoned with togarashi to liven things up a bit.


"Desserts" (sic) are dessert: housemade soft-serve accompanied with fresh fruit  and honeycomb is your only option, but it is, finally, probably shareable.  And it's really besides the point.  The Flower Shop is a really fun appealing destination, with just the right balance of sophistication and quirk to give it personality.






107 Eldr107 Eldridge Street

(212)257-4072                                        .   

idge St.
New York, NY
212 257 4072

LIL' GEM (preview)

Still a little rough on the exterior...

My visit to Lil' Gem was for only a soft opening, but while they had only about half the menu up and running, the potential for greatness is maxed out.  This cozy lil' (sic) nook is the brainchild of Lesly Bernard and chef Melissa O'Donnell will feature the Lebanese delicacies of dips, flatbreads and small plates that they're starting off with now, eventually including more substantial offerings like a whole market fish, roasted lamb and various shawarmas.



The restaurant illustrates its name: it will seat but thirty or so at one time, but they will be well fed, and happily so.  Given Bernard's background in clubs and bars, the cocktails are a don't-miss- not-too-sweet concoctions that are not so middle inspired but go well with the food.  A gin-based Purple & Bubbles channels pink lemonade
 in the best possible way, a fresh summer closer, but there are boozy Grandpa-pleasing tipples as well, in addition to beer, wine, and a novel Spanish cider.

Cold and hot mezze open the menu.  Go for any or all of the dips, such as a savory muhammara, which is basically romesco swapping out almonds for walnuts. I wished the miso-fermented hummus would've been even miso-ier, but it's a luscious spread nonetheless.  All these come with chewy, crisp-edged flatbread, but if you're in the mood to totally carb-out, go for the za'atar one (ordered separately),

which arrives warm and is the size of a medium pizza.  True, it risks ruining your appetite if you're not in a largish party, but the zesty spice mix is worth it.  Plus, as I found, these flatbreads keep well,
 so any leftovers of, say, the version smeared with hummus, chunky mushrooms roasted with fragrant spices and sweetly caramelized onions can be successfully toasted right back up again in a warm skillet.  The plums being pickled in another one
 alongside figs and a goaty ricotta allow it to handle the same, as well is its fruity-cheesiness giving it double-duty potential for dessert as well, although the zippy leaves of arugula spritzed with crunchy salt crystals keep it in its place.

Lil' Gem does not negate the end of the harvest bounty currently in farmers' markets, showcasing thick discs of smoked eggplant languishing in a heady puree of black garlic, brightened with vibrant hillocks of minced beet tartare.    Fried cauliflower is done so ever-so-gently, served with juicy lemon wedges encrusted with pulverized sumac, both contributing a crucial acidity: one bracing and familiar, the other slightly musky and exotic.

Dessert will probably be an eventuality, but in the meantime I nursed the remainder of my Purple & Bubbles, not really sweet enough to qualify as dessert, but perfectly refreshing after such a feast.  As good as it was with only half its menu to explore, Lil' Gem's got big potential.










 

29 A Clinton Street
Phone forthcoming