Tuesday, December 21, 2021

ORSAY

Somewhere around 2:45pm
 
The first association I had when I was invited to brunch at Orsay was the Musée in Paris.  And this wasn't too far off, as it definitely had a bit of a museum feel to it.  Orsay, a classic Parisian-style brasserie, has to be one of the older restaurants in New York.  Even the clock above the door was stopped in time: although they say even a broken clock is correct twice a day, it was not correct for us at any point since our brunch reservation was at 2:30, and we certainly didn't shut the place down long after midnight.  





The whole place seems a bit from another era, waiters in waist coats and bow ties, heavy chandeliers and white tablecloths.   And while other eras aren't necessarily a bad thing, this place definitely seemed a little dated.  The menu is broad enough to provide something you at least like on paper, and I ended up liking my choice much more than my tablemate.

As it was brunch, we didn't dig too deep into the variety of offerings, but I couldn't resist a whole steamed artichoke... too much effort for a single girl dining alone at home, so it was a treat to have.  Pooled in the center was a nicely viscous vinaigrette, although I really just couldn't wait to scrape through the thistly leaves and get to that heart, which is the real prize, although this one was a bit on the mushy side.  Still, I love them so much it was still appreciated.  Alternatively, there most of the classics also on offer: tartare, escargots, a soupe a l'oignon.  So you get the idea.

Entrees toe the same line, and my tablemate went with the steak frites, which I'm not sure he was that thrilled, although he finished it.  I stole some fries, and they were good: piping hot and super crisp, some with bits of skin and nicely tender inside.  Salty in the right way.  I can't vouch for the steak, nor am I a good meat judge, but suffice it to say that as the only thing my tablemate ordered, and his overall appraisal of the restaurant was mediocre, I'll just go with that.  Luckily, my Royal Seabass à la Plancha was quite good... a meaty filet, really nicely cooked with a good crisp skin.  The fennel-potato fondue beneath was rich and lusty, with a well-seasoned tomatoey broth, and the potatoes



 were really yummy: perfectly toothsome.  Potatoes I find often dry or mealy or only good because they were fried, but these were excellent and still exhibited prime spudness.

So when my tablemate asked what I thought of the food I said "very good!"  He said it was okay, but neither of us sampled the other's repast to compare.  He also didn't feel like continuing on with dessert, although I had had my eye on both the île flottante and the tarte tatin, but I guess fortunately was saved the angst of having to decide.  I would guess that those were both things that they would be able to concoct quite successfully.  

It was nearly 4:30pm
So.  Old school French?  Check?  Ambition?  Meh.  Novelty?  Double meh.  I stand with my original association, Le Musée d'Orsay.  Better than the Gare.


                                                                               


1057 Lexington Avenue                                                                         
tel.  212-517-6400



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