ABCV

I'm not vegan.  I'm not even vegetarian.  But I am a total vegephile, so when I needed a destination for my part-time vegan friend and I at which to dine, I went straight to ABCV, which has been lingering on my to-eat list for awhile now.  ABC Kitchen (its farm-to-table predeceessor),still holds a place dear to my heart even without Dan Kluger, the wunderkind behind its magic.  It was my go-to recommendation for a LONG time (before Losing Place opened) for that type of cuisine, and I enjoyed ABC Cocina as well, all of these alphabetically titled eateries under the broad jurisdiction of Jean-Georges Vongerichten .  But of the three, I have to say I may have enjoyed ABCV best of all... and none of my dining companions would disagree.

They got there a little earlier than I and were deep into their thirteen dollar cold-pressed juices by the time I joined them.  In addition to the array of juices there are "Vibrations" (lots and lots of Vs here, thanks to Vongerichten) which are described as restorative tonics, combing such peculiar flora as ashwaganda, St. John's wort or rhodiola to achieve various temperaments, like mindfulness and centering.  For two dollars more, I opted to center myself with an excellent Vespaiolo; for my sake, a wholly vegetarian dinner still seems a bit virtuous so I felt fully justified indulging in a glass of wine, even if my tablemates did remain securely belted atop their respective wagons.


The menu is broken down into Vegetables: Light & Fresh or Warm & Hot, starchier Noodles & Rice and Legumes, and a couple of Dosa options.  The vegetable dishes are somewhat less substantial in terms of satiety than the latter two, but the portions are no less generous.

From the Light & Fresh category, little could be fresher than avocado lettuce cups, with saucer-sized leaves cradling fanned-out slices of avocado, punched up with Serrano pepper, cumin and a bright blast of citrus.  Lovely nasturtium blossoms added a little more pepperiness and a lovely shot of color to breakup the. monochromatic greenness of the un-deconstructed salad.    A smoky puree of

 eggplant was just a bright and zesty, although a little more robust.  It was served with chilled crudités and warm, chewy pita bread, but the crisp veggies held it better within the bounds of its category.  Cute little dollops of

 yogurt and polka dots of tomato chutney gave a whimsical, festive appearance and assimilated brilliantly into the creamy dip.  A beet tartare could have been easily mistaken from afar for its carnivorous counterpart- visually, that is.  The thinly sliced crimson root's earthy sweetness showed well against a light dijon vinaigrette, surprised with pickly bits of sliced cornichon and a dab of avocado puree to soothe the tang.  

Moving on to Warm & Hot (which I think I could have gratefully ordered and inhaled ALL of), we began with some lusty donku shiitakes, which were both as picturesque as they were delicious, thus you get to enjoy two photos of them until you can reward yourselves with the real thing.  Drizzled in yuzukoshu green goddess and paired with richly roasted cipollini onions, it was just a playground of layered umami.  I was in anguish choosing between roasted cauliflower and and char-grilled artichokes, but our server steered us to the former, and my tablemates were in cahoots, so I missed out on those thistley harbingers of spring.  Not that there was any complaint to issue about the cauli; 

it was a lovely rendition sluiced in tahini and tossed with pomegranate arils and pistachios for crunch.  It's just that the whole roasted cauliflower (in truth, we opted for but a half) is getting a little played-out, and it is one dish easy enough to make on one's own... as opposed to artichokes, which are a comparative lot of work and subsequently a greater treat, imho. 

  

With a table of three, we still had ample room for some of the starchier options, and that's even as we had all earned Clean Plate Gold Stars from the previous dishes.  Mushrooms called out to us again, though, so we tried both the Morel 

Wontons and a bolognese riff substituting walnuts in for beef.   The wontons in the former were simply filmy-thin. shrink-wrapping their morel filling.  They were the utmost pleasure to bite into and release the toothsome, plump mushrooms embraced within, and the broth marvelously rich, especially considering its lack of animally bits and bones usually crucial to good stock.  I preferred it greatly to the carrot paccheri pseudo-bolognese, its floppy pasta tubes a little undercooked and

 stiff, and the sugo under seasoned.  But I find that is normally the case with vegan/vegetarian food, too.  It is at its best when it focuses on the ingredient, and not when it is trying to replicate a traditionally un-veg concoction, upon which most of ABCV triumphs.

Desserts were pleasant but perhaps slightly less noteworthy, but that is perhaps because the one I so desperately wanted from the menu had somehow become unavailable (a strawberry-rhubarb sundae that had my name written all over it) .  Instead, the combination of the two we ended up choosing actually worked best combined with one another than on their own: a coconut custard cut the dense richness of the chocolate mousse, and the tropical fruits of mango and passionfruit worked well with the

 islandy custard.  And the custard's cape gooseberries, strewn like jewels alongside more pomegranate arils, are always a novel delicacy on their own.   

Now, I cannot say in truth that I didn't wake up hungrier than perhaps I normally do after a dinner out, but I inarguably felt absolutely sated upon completion of our meal at ABCV.  That said, we ordered quite a lot of food, so volume had a lot to do with it.  But the flavors and composition of the dishes were more than satisfying, and the competence of the chef (who is Neal Harden, by the way) evident in both in the deliciousness and the artistry of his plating.  For omnivores and even devout carnivores, ABCV might be the best veg NYC has to offer, especially during pre-bikini season.  You can certainly indulge here and tax your calorie RDA to the hilt if you make a point of it, but it is just as easy if not easier to get a brilliantly flavorful, rejuvenating and inspiring meal keeping things light as feather... or perhaps a sweet pea blossom.

38 east 19th street new 

p: 212.475.5829

GOTHAM BAR & GRILL 35th ANNIVERSARY DINNER SERIES

I love holidays.  I love National Whatever Days, celebrations and theme parties.  So what Gotham Bar & Grill is doing to celebrate their monumental 35th anniversary appeals to me immensely.  They
 are holding a series of dinners, with special menus dedicated and inspired by each New York Times critic that has reviewed them throughout the course of their operations.  Each critic helped design a four course menu (which will cost $84) inspired by the dishes included in their reviews, beginning with Gael Greene, followed by Bryan Miller, Ruth Reichl and Sam Sifton.  (Apparently Bruni didn't cover them, or else he wasn't into it.). But the idea is so cool, and regardless it's an institution that deserves support and traffic.







The held a kick-off brunch last Sunday, a meal for which they normally do not open, so it was particularly special to attend.  The menu was broad but sophisticated, as one would expect.  There were sweeter offerings like Belgian waffles and a granola parfait, but more savory courses that one could easily see on its lunch or dinner menu.  A frisee salad
 with chewy, meaty lardons and equally chewy and meaty shiitakes came topped with a op-art caliber egg, gently cooked to just solidify its white and retain the golden vibrance of its yolk.  A kicky sherry vinaigrette moistened those bristly greens and tied the whole things together.  A vegetable risotto was gratifyingly veg-heavy, but it was also really salt- and cream- heavy, making it a little gloppier than the ideal, but still really tasty.
  Branzino came skin-on, crisp-skinned and pristinely fresh, caching a braise of softened fennel bulb and strips of sweet peppers.  A blood orange puree added a bright nudge of acidity and a little sweetness, but the dish was still surprisingly decadent.  And while I normally save dessert as an after-
dinner treat only, the semifreddo was sublime, the custard itself cool and frothy.  But the real highlight was the tangy rhubarb compote and equally zippy strawberry sorbet, tricking one into forgetting the weather man has still been reporting wintery forecasts.  A signature chocolate cake was dense and fudgy, topped
 with a quenelle of marvelous salted almond ice cream.  Their coffee is a specialty roast as well, created for Gotham by For Five Roasters out of Queens, but I found the blend a little over-roasted.  You can get burnt at Starbucks; at such an elegant restaurant I wished they'd've
designed a more subtle rendition.   It fared better in the cappuccino, whose foam was exquisitely swirled into a mesmerizing spiral.  Beautiful little touches like that will arise throughout.

And this post isn't so much about the brunch anyways (although they are offering a beautiful Easter Brunch which may feature some of those same dishes.  It's about the Times critics dinner series, which looks extraordinary.  The menus can be found on their website as they unfold (Green's and Miller's are currently visible).  Congratulations to Chef Portale and such a fine organization to have persisted so long and with such elegance and quality.

12 East 12th Street between 5th and University
tel.  1(212)620-4020 

ITALIENNE

Italy and France consider themselves to have drastically different culinary aesthetics, and from a very technical standpoint that's true.  But to the consumer there is a lot of crossover  (even if the two countries love to disparage one another).   Italienne pushes the merger even further, featuring both hybrid creations from the countries and classic dishes from each.  The restaurant didn't open up with much critical fanfare, but it has persisted for over three year now, and as such a nearby location to me, I figured I was due a visit.

I'm afraid to report I have to agree mostly with the initial cool reception, even though Chef Jared Sippel has some notable notches on his belt, having worked at such acclaimed institutions such as Frasca in Boulder, and Quince in San Francisco.

The restaurant itself is spacious, glowing with a warmth the is reflected by few of the staff.  In fact, the most 'important' seeming front-of-house circulated the room with little decorum and zero conviviality.  Perhaps they are concerned with typical New York restaurant survival angst, but that is no excuse, and in fact perpetuates any problems about which they may be stressing.  True, the room was fairly vacant for our early arrival, but it filled up nicely as the evening progressed, giving it a much needed boost of energy. albeit coming from the patrons rather than the
staff.  A tasty little potato pancake arrived as a welcome gift from the kitchen, which seemed to be bringing Germany or Austria into the fray as well, but aside from it being a tad greasy it was wonderfully tasty, achieving a chewy, golden crust to encase buttery rich tidbits of potato within.










The menu follows a pretty standard format of snacks and salumi, and then meant-to-be-shared plates followed by main course pastas and secondi.  From the snacks we tried a panzerotto, something like a small calzone, filled with spicy salami and smoked mozzarella.  My Italian tablemate found it a little too piccante for his delicate palate, but I quite liked it, although pretty heavy for more than just a bite.     But since the snacks are priced per piece, one order (a single piece) gave us each a taste and that was enough for both of us.  Quite a few of the snacks have a Spanish backbone, like pinxtos and boquerones,  bringing Spain into the fray alongside its eponymous neighbors.  Sippel seems to have an affinity towards the fishy- I was dissuaded by our chipper server from the roasted Little Gem salad with its apparently anchovy-heavy broken vinaigrette and additional boquerones atop.  But the mixed chicories he steered us towards as another salady option definitely had a fishy kick to them as well, thanks to a briny bagna cauda that forcefully overrode any hint of the eagerly anticipated black truffle vinaigrette.   There was fragments of roasted fennel and some sliced fingerlings that helped
 immensely, but once they were gone the salad didn't have much left to say.   Better was the octopus, again of Spanish descent, served a la plancha, with bite-sized hunks more tender than their gigante bean counterparts (and with those, yassu Ellas), a solid plate spiked with harissa and Castelvetrano olives.

Pasta selections looked strong, with innovative offerings such as fazzoletti with a rhubarb, fennel pollen and black pepper inflected pork ragu and nettle tagliolini with peeky toe crab and stinging nettles, as well as a few classic renderings like pappardelle sauced in red wine, beef and chicken liver.  We both happened to opt for piscine entrees, however, his more successful ocean trout and my lackluster loup de mer.  The salsa verde on the former is what perked his dish up, which also included "first of the season" white asparagus, although I don't know where this particular season is is situated, because here in
 New York nothing has broken through the frozen soils yet except for perhaps a crocus shoot or two.  The most exciting part of the loup (branzino or European seabass) was not the fish, which could have been fresher, but the humble smash of potatoes aside: it would seem all the pastis, olive oil, fennel and capers went to flavoring the 'taters instead of the fish.   A side of roasted Brussels sprouts was similarly bland, in need of salt, and the 50 year old sherry vinegar which was supposedly must have died at 49, leaving it undetectable.  A lot of the prosciutto with which is was roasted was left in the bottom of the crock, having included a somewhat excessive amount.











Perhaps against our better judgment we went for a dessert to share as well, but the buttermilk panna cotta didn't go too far to redeem a pretty disappointing dinner.  The custard itself was lovely, cool and creamy with a gentle tang, but the three preserved cherries atop were tooth-achingly sweet, too small to cut up and disperse amongst the cream given a spoon as a utensil, but overpowering to eat whole, and also leaving most of the panna cotta to be consumed unadorned but for a crumble of buckwheat-cardamom streusel that did add a nice crunch.  And serving it in the jar with its screw-top lid was clever and cute, but like a boyfriend: it's what inside that counts.

Verdict?  Would I tornare/reviendrais/regresaria/epistrepso?  I think not.

19 West 24th Street
Call Trattoria Italienne by phone at tel. (212)600-5139 

LA CENTRAL

In the midst of all the closings and bankruptcies of Chelsea restaurants, a glimmer of hope lies in a spectacular new project that has just opened its doors within the Hotel Americano. La Central, a dynamic pan-Latin eatery, has renowned chef Franklin Becker at its helm. But what makes this place fresh, exciting, timely and important is the collaborative initiative that brought it to life. 

Becker is no newcomer to New York’s restaurant scene. Born and raised in Brooklyn, he cut his teeth bussing tables in the early ’80s. Recognizing a natural affinity towards what others might regard as the chaos of the kitchen, Becker enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America. Upon graduation in ’92, he fell in with some of the best chefs in New York at the time: Charlie Palmer, David Walzog and Bobby Flay. It was Flay who introduced him to the allure of Latin American cuisine. 

So when the owners of Hotel Americano (who are from Mexico City) approached him just nine months ago about opening a restaurant in the space, the Latino focus was a no-brainer. Chef Becker took a good look at his kitchen staff — the Peruvians, Ecuadoreans and Salvadorans who were already a part of his team — and found the inspiration for La Central. He asked, “What do YOU cook?” and the effusion of replies become the foundation of the menu. 

La Central obviously doesn’t refer to the restaurant’s physical location, which is in the far reaches of West Chelsea on 27th Street, but to Central and South America, including influences from the Spanish, Portuguese, Chinese and Spanish settlers that populated those territories early on. The diverse kitchen, then, became a unifying instrument for the chef, his staff and its cuisine: a center, if you will, and thus, La Central was born. 

Duck Carnitas Tacos

Not only have their talents been elevated by cooking dishes with which they are familiar and comfortable, there emerged a tremendous pride of culture in sharing family recipes and regional specialities with the diners who would come to frequent the restaurant, and also among members of the staff. Any cultural differences between them melted, and alongside Chef Becker and even the front of house, they have united as a singular team like few kitchens ever accomplish. The staff calls Becker “Padrino,” which means grandpa, further illustrating the familial bond. 

The menu is like a playlist of the staff’s family recipes, sometimes seen through the eyes of chef Becker, and other times, directly adapted from the original. “I’m going to give them credit for what they’re doing.” Lucero Guittierrez, is from Cholula, Puebla, a town known for their moles and sauces, and opens the menu with her namesake Lucero’s Salsas: a 

Lucero's Salsas and housemade chips

spectrum of heat and color, spanning from a mild, bracing curtido, pungent with cloves, to an incendiary puree of chile di arbor that hits you in the back of the throat and just keeps on burning — in the best possible way. This is her first time cooking professionally, and she has even started making making her own tortillas, branching out as she’d never dreamed of before. 

Empanadas Colombianas

La Central’s team is really a team: the cooks note how working here feels different, like they are really fundamental partners, rather than just employees. Carlos Cartagena was born in the U.S., but his Salvadoran and Dominican roots shine through his deep golden pupusas, a vegetarian version stuffed with mushrooms and sweet winter squash. “Everyone in the kitchen is putting their culture into the menu,” he says, and there’s so much “more love and care” as a result. 

Roberto's Enchiladas

Marco Castro contributed the leche di Tigre, causa, and chaufa of his native Peru, all “food I used to eat” growing up. Roberto’s Enchiladas (Roberto Martinez is also from Cholula) are another highlight, fresh tortillas stuffed with the tenderest chicken, stewed and salty, smothered in an almost creamy salsa verde and drizzled in crema and a flounce of queso fresco. While it is listed as an appetizer, it’s in no way too skimpy for a main, especially with its depth of flavor. Rounded out with the chips and salsa or 

Seabass with parsley, garlic and jalapeño

one of the innovative side dishes, one could comprise a relatively economical meal. But while La Central is no divey bargain tacqueria, its prices are easily justified by the robust and nuanced flavors that sing

Classic rice and beans

from every plate, even if the portions weren’t as generous and filling as they are.

Peruvian Arroz Chaufa

Octopus Carnitas

Sometimes we might forget that we’re not the only Americans, that Central and South America share that title with Northerners, and comprise a huge part of our current population as well. Hotel Americano has provided a platform to usher in this inclusiveness, a reminder of the melting pot that we are. Whether it is via pot, skillet or cazuela, dinner at La Central has achieved something beyond just delicious food: it provides an example of how people, how Americans, can cooperate, collaborate, and thrive at their very best. As Marco Castro said, and in every sense, “this is good.”

Dessert "Churros"

La Central is located in the Hotel Americano, at 518 West 27th Street. The restaurant is open throughout the day for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner. Reservations through Open Table.

          518 West 27th Street
          (212)216-0000

NUR

It will never not baffle me when, after trying for approximately four months to procure a reservation at Nur, I finally get there and the place is 2/3 empty.  Not on Resy; on Resy there was no availability whatsoever.  But this time I noticed a handy little button underneath all the time slots that were "sold out", a "Notify Me" option if a table would per chance open itself up for me.  And it did, around 11pm the night before, a 5:45 reservation became available.  Early sure, but you take what you can
 get.  So when we arrived a touch early and they sat us swiftly amongst the myriad unoccupied tables  (many of which remained so throughout the course of the evening), I was all the more frustrated. Had all these table been available all along, as I wait for Resy to show one to me, instead of (for whatEVER reason), showing that there was nothing 'til 10:30pm???  I even asked the waiter, but he had no better answer.  So.  Use that Notify Me button, or else just walk in... 'cause trust me, you WANT to eat here, and there probably is a table available whether Resy tells you there is or not.


So the room is longer than it is wide, but it's a cozy, glowy, low-lit space, the walls white-washed but a warm yellow light makes it feel softer.  Beautiful grey and white tiles compose the floor, and simply-clad waiters are at your service immediately with complimentary still or sparkling (always a nice touch, especially since this place is as costly as it is, having a little bubbly water amplifies the festivity).    The soundtrack is enough to make a reservation immediately: I think I was about to drive my tablemate singing along with the dancey 80's/90's soundtrack had he not been equally nostalgic about it.  It's not too loud to ignore if you needed, but I don't know why you would.   The food menu isn't huge but offers a lot of variety, and some of the offerings had already been replaced by specials
our waiter described to us in detail.  And from what I gleaned from just one visit, I think it's hard to go wrong here.  We started off with a veggie-heavy riff on a Caesar, and while it was a little over-dressed, that dressing was stellar, brightly acidic but cheesy-rich, which played well off of the steamed-tender melange of earthy green vegetables: broccoli, green beans, and Brussels sprouts, with charred cabbage for smokiness and romaine and kale to keep it salady.  Apparently new-fangled Caessars are the new avocado toast, popping up on four out of the five last menus from which I have ordered.  I don't have a
problem with this, especially since I'm not such a fan of the original.   More vegetables came in a very unconventional form.  I'm not sure the smoked eggplant carpaccio was that accurately named, aside from its very horizontal presentation, but it was both gorgeous and delicious.... the plate reminded me of a somewhat more-controlled Jackson Pollock.
 The eggplant was roasted smokey and kissed with rose water, giving the earthy nightshade a complex array of flavors.  Crunchy pistachios provided texture and crumbled feta a bit of tang and richness.  This made a most excellent spread for the enormous Jerusalem bagel, which in my opinion puts most bagels to shame, but again, I'm not a huge bagel fan.  They are too dense and heavy; in this rendition, it was as if its size was amplified with increasing the dough, just lightening the crumb substantially,
 almost croissant-like, while retaining its chewiness.  A smattering of sesame seeds clung to its deeply golden crust, and its delicacy further graced with Messabaha, a silkier, lighter version of hummus made from lima beans whipped with cumin and shipka peppers.


The main courses became even more difficult to decide upon, given the hefty quantity of food we had already chosen from the appetizers.  But we nailed our choice (although one never knows what other deliciousness we missed).  But the Jaffa Souvlaki was our server's self-proclaimed favorite as well, and it was easy to see why.  It was pretty much my perfect combination of foods: fish and seafood, creamy, salty hummus and caramelized onions, sweet and savory, and a healthy wad of spinach for greenery. The seabass was so
 meaty you could mistake it for steak, the calamari tender and flavorful, A juicy dice of tomatoes in vinaigrette added freshness, and the dish really could not be improved upon.  That said, all the entree (or large format dishes) looked so tempting and seemed to achieve that kind of trifecta (or quadrifecta) status.  Branzino with charred cabbage, spring veg, eggplant cream and tahini.  Dayboat scallops with creamed root vegetables, roasted cauliflower and mushrooms.  Interestingly, and which is not usually the case with middle eastern food, most of the entrees focus on fish or seafood, but they are not treated daintily: they are massive umami-bombs of abundance.

And thus, we weren't that disappointed when none of the desserts that were recited to us (there is no printed dessert menu) grabbed our attention.  After the heartiness of the food, some lighter options would have had more appeal, instead of a chocolate cake/affogato type concoction and a peanut butter mousse... all too much to add on top of fully sated appetites.  So when a little plate of delicate, housemade cookies accompanied the check, that more absolutely sufficient to close out a near-perfect meal.   Chewy coconut rounds were cool and subtle, buttery shortbread-sesame balls rich but light in texture.  It was also a nice gesture, given that Nur is no cheap date.  But you'll definitely be post-prandially satisfied on all levels, and as it might take a little gouge to your wallet, your soul will be commensurately enriched.

 

34 East 20th Street
New York, New York 10003

T. 212.505.3420